Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Simplicity Pattern 1910 - Bodice

The adventures in sewing starts with the re-imagined Belle dress.  The pattern I'm using is Simplicity Pattern 1910, size 20.  I don't have it written down anywhere, but I believe we decided to make this on the big side so we can take it in where needed.

I just wanted to state at the beginning that this pattern has a mistake in it!  Pattern piece 3 is incorrect!  Please contact Simplicity at info(at)simplicity(dot)com to get the corrected piece.  Personally I was quite surprised at this as there is no mention of errata on their website.  However, I found the Simplicity personnel helpful and received the corrected pattern piece, and a coupon, in a quick and timely manner.  Also if you are making this pattern and have already cut out the incorrect piece 3, you can cut the corrected piece from what you have already cut out.  This is helpful if you have already cut and sewed up the bodice like I had and then found out the piece was wrong when you got ready to sew the bodice front to the bodice back.  Once I had the correct piece 3, it was smooth sailing for the bodice, well smoother at least.

Some stats before I launch into the making of the bodice:
Fabric: all the fabric came from Joann's.  
  • Crepe-back Satin in Gold (100% Polyester)
  • Anti-Static Lining in Champagne (100% Polyester)
  • Pellon Fusible Interfacing, Featherweight
  • Tulle Netting in Gold (100% Nylon)
Thread: Gutermann, 100% Polyester, color 797 (this color matches the fabric color almost exactly)
Changes: the bodice is pretty much as is in the pattern directions minus the trim around the top

Onto the sewing!

This first picture shows the pattern piece 3 that needed to be corrected.  What I'm sewing is the already re-cut pattern piece. The difference is about an inch is taken from the top of piece 3 so it can be sewn to the back at piece 7.  This was the first time I did princess seams.  A little tricky at first but I got the hang of it.  There's a really good article out there on princess seams at Gertie's Blog for Better Sewing.  Threads Magazine also has a good article on princess seams but it is no longer available to the general public, I was lucky enough to find it before they hid it behind a paywall.

Turning the loops was a pain!  If you plan on turning lots of loops in your sewing career, then I suggest getting one of those loop-turner gadgets.  It probably would have made all the difference when I was trying to turn the loops for the back of the bodice (and for my coat too, but that's another post).

Also the first time I worked with lining.  It turned out well, but the lining is slippery and I had to rip a few times before I got everything right.  Also I learned it pays to read the instructions closely, since I first sewed the back to the front on the wrong side.

The boning was also easy since the pattern calls for you to sew down the seam allowance and use that as the casing for the boning.  The only downside with the boning is trying to straighten it a bit since it came in a little pack all tightly rolled up.  Keep a sturdy nail-file with you when trimming the boning to sand off any really rough spots.  You don't want that stuff catching and damaging your hard work.  The boning used was a plastic "featherlite" boning by Dritz.

Sewing the lining to the bodice was a little tricky but it looks great!  The top part of the bodice where the lining and satin are sewn together still wants to roll a bit.  I think it needs to be pressed a bit more and that should help.  If not I'll search for another solution.  Understitching was not hard at all and I like that it helps keep the lining in place.

That's it for the bodice!  I'm getting ready to sew the skirt.  However, my next post will be about my coat.  Thanks for visiting!  :-)


Unknown said...

I am using this pattern for the Elsa Coronation dress from Frozen. I plan on attaching Elsa's black top to the top of this dress. Also, I plan on omitting the side zipper and the lacing and putting a back zipper all the way through the black top portion. Thoughts since you have worked with this pattern?

Mic said...

Hi! For what you are planning for Elsa's dress I think that would work. The lacing is just decorative. It does nothing in the way of holding up or cinching in the dress so omitting that won't be an issue. Also moving the side zip to a back zip should be straightforward enough; but I myself have never moved a side zip to a back zip. I think the main concern you would have is making sure it fits. For whatever reason, Simplicity made the sizing on this dress really big, there is a lot of positive ease added in. I ended up taking an inch and a half out of the dress even though I went with the suggested size. I'm curious to see how the black top will be added to this dress.
Honestly, after seeing some pictures of both Elsa's dress and some of people cosplaying it, I think this pattern would work really well for what you are planning. Good Luck! Please post pics when you're done! :-)

PS: I realize I neglected this blog and that i never posted pics of the finished dress. Hopefully, I'll get my act together and do that. :)

Unknown said...

Interesting, I am using this pattern for the Elsa Coronation gown also and also putting the zipper in the back and attaching the black top. I think, so far, the only way to attach the black top is by top stitching. I have also added a "v" front. So, that is why I will just top stitch the black top. Any thoughts? I did find that the bodice was a bit large across the upper chest. I am making it for my daughter and need to fit the lining on her before I move on.

Jonie said...

I am thinking of using this top as part of a Rapunzel dress. Thanks for the review.